In the world of wine and food, Spain has so much to offer. The world’s best ham, Iberico, most popular bubbles, Cava, delectable tapas and the unique experience of Sherry are all quintessential Spanish delicacies. I could go on and on about the gourmet treasures of Spain but in this week’s column I’ll focus on two of my favorites, Rioja red wine and lamb. Fantastic by themselves, when enjoyed together they create a deliciously synergistic experience that’s hard to match anywhere.
Rioja is often referred to as the Bordeaux of France and indeed the two regions have historic links. In the 19th century when Bordeaux was devastated by the phylloxera pest, many wine makers from Bordeaux moved to Rioja in northern Spain. They brought their winemaking technology and the Atlantic climate and soil were similar enough to make the complex, structured red wines favored by Bordeaux winemakers. Rioja became Spain’s most famous wine region. Two major factors combine to create the beloved “Rioja style”, first the Tempranillo grape and secondly, long aging in mostly American oak. Today, there are many exciting newer Spanish wine regions that have stolen some of the spotlight including Ribera del Duero, Toro and Priorato; but Rioja still makes some of the smoothest and most sumptuous red wines in the world.
Lamb is one of the best meats to enjoy with red wine. Technically, lamb is meat from sheep that are less than a year old. In Spain, lamb is often younger ranging from suckling lamb that’s 4-6 weeks old to spring lamb that’s a few months old. My two favorite Spanish lamb dishes are the Chuletillas, tiny grilled baby lamb chops that you can eat using your hands, and whole roasted suckling lamb that feature crispy skin and tender juicy meat. These exceptionally flavored and textured dishes need no sauce, only a good Rioja red wine to create an unforgettable experience. In Shanghai, lamb from New Zealand or Australia is an acceptable alternative. I’ve also tasted some very good lamb from Mongolia. But no gourmet would ever experience a beautiful lamb dish without a rich and generous red wine. Here are some lovely Rioja red wines, all available in Shanghai, to enjoy with lamb.
Marques de Riscal is one of the great names in Spanish wines. Since then mid 19th century, this winery has made some of Rioja’s most distinguished red wines. The historic link with Bordeaux is manifested in their wines with their Rioja Reserva offering plenty of elegant dark fruit and structured tannins. The fruit of the wine embellishes the flavors of lamb dishes while the tannins cleanse the palate and facilitate digestion. The winery also makes a very affordable medium-bodied red wine called Riscal 1860 Tempranillo that also delivers a genuine Rioja experience and partners beautifully with lamb dishes.
Muga is another traditional producer making classic Rioja wines, while the relative newcomer El Coto is making delicious Rioja reds that represent excellent values. Miguel Torres is a great name in Spanish wines that’s usually associated with Penedes, not Rioja, but recently I enjoyed their Ibericos Rioja Crianza with Mongolian BBQ lamb. The combination of the zesty flavor of the BBQ lamb and the soothing nature of the smooth wine was proof again how beautifully Spanish wines pair with Chinese cuisine.