Argentina seems to have a unique talent for taking obscure varietals that are on the decline in the Old World and making them hits in the New World. Case-in-point is Malbec, an increasingly obscure red wine varietal in Bordeaux and some other regions in France that became the most important red wine in Argentina. Will Torrontes follow this path to glory? I’m fairly certain that most readers have never heard of Torrontes. That’s perfectly alright because outside of Argentina very few people have been making it or drinking it, until recently. Noble white wine varietals like Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Riesling have overshadowed lesser known or appreciated grapes. Torrontes, a cross between the Mission grape from Galicia and the Muscat of Alexandria, has become the signature white wine of Argentina despite being relatively unknown elsewhere. But the one constant in the wine world is change and occasionally a varietal that was formerly obscure or frowned on becomes a new star.
It happened with Pinot Grigio, the Italian name for Pinot Gris, which except for a few lovers of Alsatian wines previously had little recognition or appreciation in mainstream wine markets. Then fragrant and charming Pinot Grigio whites from northern Italy started capturing the hearts and palates of wines drinkers around the world. The beauty of Pinot Grigio was that it was easy-to-drink and different. Many wine drinkers in major markets like the United States and Great Britain were looking for an alternative to Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc and they found it in Pinot Grigio. While Pinot Grigio never won accolades from serious wine connoisseurs as one of the world’s great whites the varietal did have a major and enjoyable impact on the global wine scene by exhibiting their unpretentious and easy-going charm.
The next Pinot Grigio?
One of the key factors in the success of Pinot Grigio wines was that they offended no one. On the other hand, Torrontes with higher acidity and a more distinctive style has the power to offend, something I actually admire in a wine. A wine that pleases everyone may be pleasant but is seldom interesting. The new Torrontes wines from good producers challenge one’s nose and palate with an abundance of floral aromas and a bracing acidity. The intense floral bouquet of these wines makes these wine unique, in other words perfume in a bottle. The Pinot Grigio craze is already getting a little old and wine lovers are once again looking for something different. Wine insiders are speculating on the next white wine grape that will become wildly popular. Some are betting on Torrontes.
All about Altitude
The best Torrontes wines come from the northern wine regions of Argentine, especially Salta. The two most famous sub-regions of Salta are Valle Calchaqui and Cafayate that boarder the Andes Mountains. These regions are home to the highest vineyards in the world ranging from 1,500 to over 3,000 meters above sea level. The extreme diurnal temperature range, just a fancy way to say hot days and cold nights, is key to making quality Torrontes wines. Hot days with plentiful sunshine and quite cool evenings result in a long slow ripening of the grapes, something essential when making quality Torrontes wines with greater freshness, concentration and complexity. Torrontes wines made from lower elevations lack the aromatic intensity and acidity of those from higher altitudes. Other factors that are important in making quality Torrontes wines are low yields from the vineyards and careful environmental control during the wine making process as Torrontes grapes are prone to oxidation.
Single variety
Even premium Torrontes wines are good values in Shanghai usually retailing for under 200 RMB. The Dominio del Plata Crios de Susana Balbo, 2010 comes from a family owned winery that makes some of the most notable Torrontes wines. The 2010 wine offers intense honeysuckle and jasmine aromas and lovely citrus fruit flavors with vibrant acidity. Another premium wine under 200 RMB is the Colome Torrontes, 2010. Also from the Valle Calchaqui in Salta the wine exhibits plentiful floral qualities, especially rose and jasmine scents along with fresh apricot flavors and palate pleasing acidity. Owned by the U.S. wine group Hess Family Estates the wines of Colome are among the best made affordable Argentinian wines.
For under 100 RMB you can still get very good Torrontes wines. One example is the Lo Tengo Torrontes 2009 from the large Argentinean producer Norton. This is one of the best value white wines on the market with a pale yellow color with greenish hints, rose and yellow fruit aromas and a nice fruit-acid balance that leaves the palate refreshed.
Blends
Sometimes another variety, usually Chardonnay, is added to Torrontes to add more body or texture. The INCA Calchaqui Valley Torrontes Chardonnay, 2010 is an excellent example. This predominantly Torrontes wine has a light golden yellow color with greenish hints and plentiful floral and citrus aromas and flavors. The minority Chardonnay contribution adds more weight and texture to the wine while still retaining the fresh and aromatic qualities of a good Torrontes wine. Its interesting to note that the winemaker for INCA is Huge Ryman who was portrayed by Russell Crowe in the film “A Good Year”.
Conversely, Torrontes is sometimes added to a mostly Chardonnay wine to add fragrance and freshness. Callia Alta Chardonnay Torrontes, 2010 from Valle de Tulum (Tulum Valley) in San Juan, the second largest wine producing region in Argentina about 2 hours drive north of Mendoza; the wine feature a light golden color with most of the color depth contributed by the Chardonnay, a lively citrus and peach nose with slight tinny or mineral notes and nicely intense lemon and lime flavors with good persistence.
Enjoy young and chilled
One of the things Torrontes wines does not do well is age. Therefore, you should drink these wines young. This is especially important in Shanghai where the extra travel and sometimes suspect storage facilities often prematurely age wines and rob them of their freshness. A good rule when purchasing Torrontes wines is to pick nothing more than three years old. Most 2009 and 2010 wines are still fine but I wouldn’t buy anything older. Because of their relatively high alcohol content, typically between 13 and 14 percent, and high acidity, Torrontes wines are best served well-chilled meaning about 8 degrees Celsius.
