Recently after a very formal wine dinner I hosted in Shanghai, I bought a pizza on the way home. Though the dinner featured an elaborate eight-course menu and some great wines I was too busy introducing the wines and working to make sure the guests were happy to really enjoy the meal, so as is often the case after these events I was hungry. What’s easier than a late night pizza, but what about the wine? Some pizza purists in Italy and around the world may claim beer as there preferred beverage to accompany a pizza, but I beg to differ. I think wine can make almost any food taste better, even pizza. Perhaps because of sentiment, style or the fact the two have lived side-by-side for centuries, I prefer Italian wines with pizza. Keeping with the casual nature and modest price of a pizza meal, I’ll suggest moderately priced wines all readily available in Shanghai.
The initial concern when pairing pizza and wine is the type of pizza, the topping and thickness of the crust. Also, the pizzas worth eating and those that go best with wines are not the mass produced commercial pizzas that add sugar to their sauces and use some form of industrial glue-like cheese, not the classic buffalo mozzarella used by quality-minded producers. A good pizza may be simple, but like all good foods it depends on quality ingredients. These ingredients will also dictate the best wine solution.
Naples is generally considered the home of the modern pizza, but ancient references to pizza come from other regions of Italy including Abruzzi, Apulia, Sicily and Tuscany. Even in Naples there’s controversy about what is the classic pizza, one with oil tomato, garlic and oregano often referred to as marinara or the very popular Margherita, made with tomato, mozzarella and basil that was named in honor of an Italian queen just over a century ago. I don’t know who’s right, but I do know that both these simple pizzas are lovely with fruity white wines with good acidity. The fruit of the whites complements the tomato and basil flavors while the acidity cuts through the proteins and fat of the cheese. Quite simply, harmony of the palate is achieved. Wines in this category include the Falanghina Campania Sannio from Campania where Naples is located, a crisp and fruity Soave from good producers like Masi or Zonin or even a Pinto Grigio from the northern Italy producers like Russiz in Friuli or Alois Lageder in Alto Adige. All these whites are also very nice with pizzas with seafood toppings or white sauces.
Like many readers, I sometimes crave meat. More often than not, I’ll choose a pizza with sausage or other meat topping along with the tomato sauce and cheese. The natural choice is a red wine to complement the meat and cheese; however, because of the tomato sauce you need a red with good acidity to match the acidity of the tomato sauce. Your best solution is a well-made, basic Chianti from top Tuscan producers like Ruffino, Carpineto or Castello di Querceto. My personal favorite with meaty pizzas is a nice Barbera, a fruity, sometimes spicy red with good acidity from Piedmont in the northwest of Italy. Quality producers include Pio Cesare and Michele Chiarlo. All these reds are sure to embellish your already delicious pizza experience. Remember to chill these light reds to about 4-15C.
