Category: Wine & Spirits

Homer’s epic work, The Odyssey, brought the world’s attention to Sicilian wine. Sicilian winemaking over the millennium has experienced many ups and downs, but today the island is indisputably on a hot streak. For most the 20th century, the ripe grapes of Sicily were consumed locally or sold in bulk to provide sugar and alcohol to wines made in the more northerly wine regions of Europe. Sicilian wines were considered over-ripe, too high in alcohol and lacking in elegance. But the problem was never the grapes themselves. The problem was the high temperature and lack of modern winemaking equipment. Throughout the winemaking process the heat and exposure to oxygen would harm the grapes and result in wines that were oxidized and lacked freshness and style. Now with investment in new technology and modern winemaking, Sicilian wines represent some of the most exciting and affordable Italian wines.

The south of France offers some of the world’s most resplendent colors, aromas and tastes. Lush fields of lavender, wild herbs and flowers cover the rolling hills. Perhaps most amazing is that you can also experience many of these sensations in a glass. Just buy a glass or bottle of rose from one of the wine regions in the south of France.

In the world of wine and food, Spain has so much to offer. The world’s best ham, Iberico, most popular bubbles, Cava, delectable tapas and the unique experience of Sherry are all quintessential Spanish delicacies. I could go on and on about the gourmet treasures of Spain but in this week’s column I’ll focus on two of my favorites, Rioja red wine and lamb. Fantastic by themselves, when enjoyed together they create a deliciously synergistic experience that’s hard to match anywhere.

For high quality red wines at a reasonable price there are two words you should never forget, Rioja and Crianza. Rioja is Spain’s most famous wine region located in the hilly north of the country. Winemaking in this region dates back thousands of years to the Phoenicians and Celtiberians, but it wasn’t until the mid to late 19th century that the region gained global recognition for making great wines. At this point of history, winemakers in Bordeaux were devastated by the phylloxera vine disease and many settled in Rioja bringing their considerable wine-making skills. In 1991, Rioja became the first region in Spain to receive the Denominación de Origen Calificada (DOCa), the nation’s highest designation of quality for wines.

The world’s best dry white wines all have something in common, namely cool evening temperatures during the growing season. Of course, there are many other factors that are important in making superior white wines, but the difference in temperature between sunny days and cool evening is critical. Adelaide Hills in Southern Australia has the perfect climate to make fresh white wines with good acidity. The high elevation of the vineyards results in cool evening temperatures, while the sloping vineyards provide ideal exposure to the sun. The result is complex white wines with abundant fruit but also a high degree of acidity. The excellent balance between the fruit and acidity is what make the white wines of this region so impressive.

While I make no bones about my preference for old world sparklers, I must admit that there are some very desirable new world sparkling wines that offer plenty of delicious bubbles for the money. While old world sparkling wines tend to have defined regions and known brands like Champagne, Cava and Prosecco, new world sparkling wines can come from almost any region and lack the defined style and regulated production of their old world counterparts.  Purchasing new world sparkling wines is risky as you never really know what you are getting unless you’ve already tasted the wine. The most reliable way to pick a good new world sparkler is to know the producer. The label also usually indicates how dry or sweet the wine is (for instance brut for dry, extra brut for very dry and demi sec for sweet) and the grape or blend of grapes. Let’s take a look at some of the new world’s best sparklers that are readily available in Shanghai.

As global demand increases, especially in new markets like Russia and China, the price of famous wines compels us to search for new more affordable alternatives. In wine speeches and presentations, I’m often fond of stating that any fool can spend 5,000 RMB and get a great wine. It takes very little skill. However, getting a really good wine at a low price takes a great deal more skill and experience. I taste thousands of different wines each year, and in the inexpensive category the sad truth is that most are bad or at best drinkable. The good news is that a small minority, perhaps 10 percent or less are actually quite good. In recent years, malbec red wines from Argentina have become some of the best inexpensive wines. For reasonable prices these wines offer dark color, rich fruitiness often with a touch of spice and soft tannins.

Recently after a very formal wine dinner I hosted in Shanghai, I bought a pizza on the way home. Though the dinner featured an elaborate eight-course menu and some great wines I was too busy introducing the wines and working to make sure the guests were happy to really enjoy the meal, so as is often the case after these events I was hungry. What’s easier than a late night pizza, but what about the wine? Some pizza purists in Italy and around the world may claim beer as there preferred beverage to accompany a pizza, but I beg to differ. I think wine can make almost any food taste better, even pizza. Perhaps because of sentiment, style or the fact the two have lived side-by-side for centuries, I prefer Italian wines with pizza. Keeping with the casual nature and modest price of a pizza meal, I’ll suggest moderately priced wines all readily available in Shanghai.

After five years and nearly 50 wine dinners for the European Chamber of Commerce Taiwan (ECCT), I had the honor to do my first wine dinner for the European Chamber of Commerce China (EUCCC) last week in Shanghai. The event was so successful that I’d like to share with readers some of the treats that evening. The event was Gallery area of el Willy, a lovely Spanish restaurant on Donghu Road. Dinners like this take quite a lot of preparation so I had several meetings with the people of el Willy and Torres China who supplied the wines. Great concern was focused on matching each wine with a course that would highlight the best aspects of that particular wine.

Recently, every time I fly back to Shanghai I am greeted by swirling winds and snow flakes. Winter is far from over and wine lovers still crave delicious winter red wines to warm our hearts and palates. In a previous column, I introduced grenache as a red wine grape suitable for winter weather and winter dishes. This week, I want recommend another red wine grape perfect for the winter season, zinfandel. Best known as a grape and wine name in California, this variety has a history that long confounded wine professionals and scientists.